

A second highlight of Warpaints Filthy Cape was applied (sorry for the blurry picture).ġ8. The suit was higlighted with Mechanicus Standard Grey in a scruffy way to add some texture.ġ7. If you don’t like the finish, apply a thinned coat of Warpaints Anti-Shine varnish.ġ6. The Nuln Oil Gloss will improve the flow of the wash, but will also make the result a bit glossy.

The suit, leather and metal were all washed with a 1:1 mix of Warpaints Dark Tone Ink and Nuln Oil Gloss. All the metal was painted with Gun Metal. The leather details were painted with Warpaints Oak Brown. The undersuit was painted with Warpaints Necromancer Cloak. A glaze of Waywatcher Green will increase the vibrancy of the skin.ġ2. The skin was highlighted with Scaly Hide. The Lahmian Medium will make the wash softer and less likely to pool on flat areas.ġ0.

Once dry, I applied a second wash of the same mix.

The skin was washed with a 2:1 mix of Biel-Tan Green and Lahmian Medium. The eyes were painted with Mephiston Red. Scaly Hide is a light pale green that covers very well in three thin coats over black. The skin was basecoated with Warpaints Scaly Hide. A second stage of sponge weathering was applied, this time with Shining Silver. With a piece of ripped blister sponge, I sponged some Warpaints Gun Metal on the edges of the armour.Ħ. A second drybrush was applied, this time with Warpaints Ash Grey. The armour slabs were then drybrushed with Warpaints Hardened Carapace would be similar], concentrating on the hard edges.Ĥ. Thinned Warpaints Oak Brown was pin washed into random recesses of the armour to represent dirt and grime.ģ. The model was primed with Matt Black Colour Primer from The Army Painter, then, any areas the primer didn’t reach were painted with Matt Black Warpaint from The Army Painter. In case you need to expand your paint collection, head over to Wayland Games or Element Games, which stock a huge selection of paints at competitive prices.ġ.
